London Tastes and Teas

Finally, made it to London. It took some doing as the Eurostar (chunnel) was booked. So, we had an adventure on the ferry from Calais to Dover. This is no easy undertaking as it means a train from Paris to Calais, two buses to the ferry. When you are finally aboard, it is relaxing until the buses of teens on holiday invade the lounges and decks. There is nothing but non-stop noise until you spot the white cliffs.

When I see the white cliffs of Dover, I remember tales of the flyers during the war that were so happy to see them after bombing missions over France and Germany. Their legs practically frozen and their little planes limping home, the cliffs looked like a beacon shining in the sun. I found the people in Dover very friendly and helpful.

After you arrive at the port, you must then take a bus to the center of the village and walk a few blocks to the train station. Friendly souls will help you find your way as it is not marked. Then you can board a little train for London. You arrive at Victoria station. The station looks so much more romantic in the movies. You can easily get a taxi at the curb. Now, here's the trick. You can bargain with the cab drivers for your fare to your hotel. We were told in Dover, that there are prices for Londoners and prices for foreigners. This is true and we just offered the driver what we had and struck a bargain.

We took a local bus to the Victoria and Albert Museum. One can easily spend a week at this one museum. We chose to limit our visit to the quilt exhibition, the jewelry and the pottery. The quilt exhibit was very well done. Especially touching, were the quilts from prisoners. There is a precious friendship quilt made by children prisoners during the war. They used little scraps of their dresses for the fabric and hid in a corner of the exercize yard but were finally discovered. They embroidered their names in some of the blocks. Just heart breaking.

Now, the jewelry is absolutely overwhelming. So much history and wealth displayed in very informative cases. There are two floors and I think there is something for everyone. Especially interesting are the pieces made with human hair located in the center of the floor in drawers.

We had a fine lunch and pot of Earl Grey in the tea room. Sit inside by the fireplace if you can and marvel at the decoration. I enjoyed a very flaky pot pie and had a wonderful conversation with an architectural professor. He is restoring a model of the Catholic Cathedral in London. We exchanged stories of Cordoba.

Finally, we found the ceramic wing. It is a real learning experience. It takes you through the many methods of creating china. There are beautiful pieces and I particularly enjoyed the teapots.

Now, if you go behind the museum of Natural History, next door and walk to Kensington Garden. Enter at the Alexandria Gate and not the little lodge with the lush garden. This was a small tea room built for Queen Victoria's princesses. They couldn't take tea in a public tea room, so this little lodge served them on their walks.

If you visit Kensington Palace, you can take advantage of the interesting exhibit which is very charming and interactive. You hunt for the princesses in Victoria's apartments. This is very clever and the work of a group of talented artists. I enjoyed it very much and I noticed quite a few children really wrapped up in the hunt. It took a full hour.

After, your hunt for the princesses ends, you can enjoy an afternoon tea at the Orangerie. I had a delicious pot of Indian Breakfast tea. The scones were light and warm and the sandwiches were varied. The desserts were creamy and fresh with just the right amount of tart and sweet. I found the staff charming and would love to come again.

Tea at Fontainbleu II

Okay, yes, I had to go back to tour the Chalet and to eat incredible food in the sweet little village of Fontainbleu. It is an easy train ride from the Gare de Lyon to Fontainbleu, then a short bus ride to the Chalet. Take comfy shoes as there is an enormous amount of cobblestones to contend with in order to enter the Chalet.

There are an incredible amount of personal items from Napoleon, including a silver camp tea service. Ooh, I want one! Napolean said, "Fontainbleu is the true palace of kings!" I have to agree. It is ever so more cozy than Versailles. I would be very happy to sleep in any of the beautifylly adorned beds. I especially loved Marie Antoinettes choice in hand embroidered wall paper for her salon.

If you leave the gardens by the side gate, you will come out in front of the carousel (very charming). Walk up one block and turn left past the fruit and vegetable market and stop in for lunch at Frederic Cassel. We ordered a pot of their Lapsang Souchong, Demann. Very smoky but not too to accompany lunch. It was served in a lovely Japanese bronze teapot. The tea room only seats 16 so come early. Every meal is started with a small shot glass full of egg salad made with horseradish, herbs and mayonaisse. Very lovely. We had a crab and avacado salad and very rustic bread. For an entree, we ordered the duch with green beans. The young beans were steamed in a leek leaf, very sweet and I must try this at home. Of course, we had to order dessert. I had the Baba in cognac with raspberry sauce and creme fresch and mummy had a chocolate mousse bomb covered in a lemon icing, black berry and white chocolate slivers. Beautiful and yummy!

As you leave, you must stop into the fromage shop, "De Fromage, Elles Se Regalent, De Fromage, Vous Bous Regalerez". This is the cheese shop to end all cheese shops. We tried the best in the house, a mild parmassian. We were so stuffed from lunch, that we brought it back and put it on a warm crepe in our hotel room. This accompanied by a bottle of Cote de Rhone was the perfect ending to a perfect day. Bon apetit!

Buying Tea in Frejus

There is the most deilightful tea shop in Frejus, France. Just walk about three blocks downhill from the information center and there it will be between a cafe and a florist. There are two whole walls of tea, all carefully labeled with a description of the treasured leaves inside. C'est magnifique!

I found the smokiest Lapsang Souchong ever. I'm bringing it back to the tea room and will share it by the fire, if you should happen to come in on a rainy day. Then I moved onto the Petrouchka Russe' and finally to Royal Green Tea with flowers and fruit. It's aroma was so heavenly, people who wandered in, lined up to purchase some for themselves. What a discovery, and the owner was very kind and generous with his time.

Now, just down the block is Patisserie Marie'. She has devine quiche fromage and a beautiful pine nut tort. The only one I have found on this trip. We came back after lunch for a banana and chocolate tort and a prune and apricot creme de caramel. Ooh, la la!

Lunch today was at Herme's Restaurant, found in the square by the church. I had an eldorado fish in a white butter sauce with baby green beans prepared in a garlic and herb sauce. This was fine dining with a view of the marche. Wednesday's are market in Frejus. The town is absolutely transformed on market day. There are so many colors to be had with tablecloths, scarves and clothes. And in the square, there were vegetables and fruits. I chose a D'Angou Pear and it was huge and gloriously slurpy.

Well, back in the car to Aix en Provence for martket day. By the way, Aix only has a large market on Thursday and Saturday. The market on Tuesday is now tres petite.

Genova's Patesseries

If living well is the best revenge, the Genovese must be paying someone back to an extreme. The city is so clean and charming. It is very walkable with smooth pavement, plenty of fountains and charming buildings. There are wonderful boutiques, good windowshopping and numerous dogs to pet along the way.

Not to be missed, are the patisseries, especially the Tagliafico. It is located in the old part of the city. We walked easily from the train station, stopped and bought a box of delicate confections (one of everything)and proceeded to the Arch. On a park bench near the arch,we savored a great many pastries. My favorite was a creme filled baba. It was so soaked in alcohol, I wasn't sure if it was legal to drive after eating. Baba mia! Arrivaderci Genova.

Dinner and Tea in Cannes

Winding roads lead to Cannes whether you travel by the sea or inland. Patience is needed either way. This evening, I chose the sea route, very similar to traveling on Hwy 1 up the coast of California. Lovely beach towns, bicyclists and a few motorcycles keep the speed pretty low. The sea is a lovely turquoise and there is not sign of the volcanic cloud.

Cannes is full of beautiful hotels, people and jewelry. You might remember it in the movie, "French Kiss" with Meg Ryan. It looks just like the movie. I found a wonderful restaurant, very rustic with stone walls and large beams that also billed itself as a salon de The'.

We ordered a duck and lettuce salad and an artichoke ravioli. I was served a pot of Earl Grey. The tea was Dammann Fre'res and was a disappointment. It had hardly a hint of bergamot. The food however was scrumptious. The duck was lightly smoked and served warm over fresh green lettuce and real tomatoes. The ravioli was stuffed wiwth herbs and sauted with baby artichokes. It was just tossed with a light olive oil and quite a lot of garlic. Very inventive.

Sitting next to us was a nice gentleman from Manchester, England. He had eaten here at the Pastis Restaurant previously. Like so many travelers, his flight has been cancelled because of the volcanic cloud. As more diners arrived, we realized that many were also stranded. The trains and ferries are full and if you are lucky enough to have a car you had better keep it because none are available. Many rental cars are being taken one way and dropped where travelers can catch trains or ferries.

For now, we are fortunate that we have accommodations and no immediate plans to fly or take a train anywhere. We do hope that our fellow Americans in the states are being gracious to stranded European travelers. We met some poor American girls stranded in Venice a couple of days ago. They had no way out of Venice and were crying. We offered to give them a ride but they were desperate to go on to Paris via train and try and get a flight. I think that all of us will have to try and help each other as this cloud continues to create problems.

Frejus

I stayed in the most beautiful hotel in Frejus. It is completely decorated in Provencal prints with a mellow green for most of the painted furniture and a yellow and burgundy print for fabric. While well appointed nothing is overdone. I was given a salon for writing all to myself. And, as it would happen, the night clerk provided me with a wonderful pot of Earl Grey while I wrote.

Strolling the village, we discovered the most incredible pattisseries. We began with an almond croissant that was filled with local honey. Then we tasted a mellow tart filled with wonderful cream. Around the next corner, we discovered another pattisserie. I tried the citreon tart. It really made me pucker but the merringue helped cut the citrus and it was a perfect compliment to my morning latte. Just across the road is a ChocolaThe shop which will have to wait for Wednesday. Up the hill is a tea purveyor that I can explore on Wednesday also.

The trouble is that most shops will not open on Sunday or Monday. This can be frustrating if you are only staying a few days, but luckily, we were able to book rooms by the sea for another three days.

Lunch was a beautiful light salmon quiche with another pot of Earl Grey. The quiche here is more cream than egg. It must be whipped for quite a while because it is much lighter than what you find in the States, except at the fairie building in San Francisco. The quiche there is about two inches tall.

Venezia, New Discoveries in My Favoirite City

I had not been to Venice in twenty years. The nice thing about a city this old is that very little will change. I found it just as I left it, in its magnificence. My mother often says that she doesn't understand my attachment to Venice. I sat and explained tht it is the great attention to detail that I love. A building doesn't just have a pretty balcony that has been carved of stone but if you sit under and look up, it will be painted on the underside.

We sat in the Hotel Danielli and looked up. Beautifully painted ceilings all gilded beams and Murano chandeliers, no details were neglected. We drank in the elegance and light as it passed through colored windows. the Danielli is a wonderful place to have high tea. An English Afternoon Tea is served at 3:00 and includes a selection of tea, fresh scones, assorted finger sandwiches, delectable tarts and cakes and tea cookies. All of this for 34 Euros and can't be missed.

On the first day that you arrive in the city, you might find the decor overwhelming, especiall the chandeliers. But, in the course of a day or two, you will relax into the colors, the light and heavy decoration. When you leave, you will find other places wanting. Where is the gold?

The food is the same. A great attention to detail is given, especially in the sauces. There will never be another veal lemonaise quite like the first one I ate in Venice, nor any Tiramisu that will ever be as creamy and well balanced between the cocoa and the creme.

This trip, I wandered onto the small Piazza Rosso, where Vivald's parish chursh is located. Across from this chuch, I made the acquaintance of Pierangelo Massciadri. He designs the most incredible silk scarves and silk accessories from historic pieces of art and architecture. To wear one of his pieces is to promote a cultural masterpiece. For instance, he went into the archives of Ricordi and painted from the original drawings of Attilio Comelli for "Aida" and created a scarf with all of the main charcters depicted as first conceived for the 1904 La Scala production. He is the most charming man and has designed ties for Bill Clinton, Bill Gates and H.S.H. Prince Albert of Monaco.

Directly opposite from Signor Masciardri's shop is St. John the Baptist. Upon entering, you hear choral music by vivaldi. It is a wonderful plae to sit and collect yourself after strolling the Grand Canal. The church is unassuming on the outside. It has wonderul acoustis and is very comfortable. You may find it interesting, to view the relics of saints in small naves on each side of the church. By inserting a coin, the lights in the little niches will go on and you may view everthing much clearer. I found the relics of a Russian Saint on the right side. The Patriach of the Russian Orthodox Church came for the installation. The saint's body is black with age but has not deteriorated in form. It is fully clothed down to the gold and burgundy velvet slippers on his feet. I wonder why he ended up in Vivaldi's church.

Often, as I wander the streets and buildings in this city, I am hit with the idea that Vivaldi or Cassanova actually stepped on this stone or this floor. Or as in the case in the little church, Vivaldi might have sat in this very chair to pray or develop a musical thought. So, I tread softly and avoid the crowds to simply breathe, observe and taste.