Venezia, New Discoveries in My Favoirite City

I had not been to Venice in twenty years. The nice thing about a city this old is that very little will change. I found it just as I left it, in its magnificence. My mother often says that she doesn't understand my attachment to Venice. I sat and explained tht it is the great attention to detail that I love. A building doesn't just have a pretty balcony that has been carved of stone but if you sit under and look up, it will be painted on the underside.

We sat in the Hotel Danielli and looked up. Beautifully painted ceilings all gilded beams and Murano chandeliers, no details were neglected. We drank in the elegance and light as it passed through colored windows. the Danielli is a wonderful place to have high tea. An English Afternoon Tea is served at 3:00 and includes a selection of tea, fresh scones, assorted finger sandwiches, delectable tarts and cakes and tea cookies. All of this for 34 Euros and can't be missed.

On the first day that you arrive in the city, you might find the decor overwhelming, especiall the chandeliers. But, in the course of a day or two, you will relax into the colors, the light and heavy decoration. When you leave, you will find other places wanting. Where is the gold?

The food is the same. A great attention to detail is given, especially in the sauces. There will never be another veal lemonaise quite like the first one I ate in Venice, nor any Tiramisu that will ever be as creamy and well balanced between the cocoa and the creme.

This trip, I wandered onto the small Piazza Rosso, where Vivald's parish chursh is located. Across from this chuch, I made the acquaintance of Pierangelo Massciadri. He designs the most incredible silk scarves and silk accessories from historic pieces of art and architecture. To wear one of his pieces is to promote a cultural masterpiece. For instance, he went into the archives of Ricordi and painted from the original drawings of Attilio Comelli for "Aida" and created a scarf with all of the main charcters depicted as first conceived for the 1904 La Scala production. He is the most charming man and has designed ties for Bill Clinton, Bill Gates and H.S.H. Prince Albert of Monaco.

Directly opposite from Signor Masciardri's shop is St. John the Baptist. Upon entering, you hear choral music by vivaldi. It is a wonderful plae to sit and collect yourself after strolling the Grand Canal. The church is unassuming on the outside. It has wonderul acoustis and is very comfortable. You may find it interesting, to view the relics of saints in small naves on each side of the church. By inserting a coin, the lights in the little niches will go on and you may view everthing much clearer. I found the relics of a Russian Saint on the right side. The Patriach of the Russian Orthodox Church came for the installation. The saint's body is black with age but has not deteriorated in form. It is fully clothed down to the gold and burgundy velvet slippers on his feet. I wonder why he ended up in Vivaldi's church.

Often, as I wander the streets and buildings in this city, I am hit with the idea that Vivaldi or Cassanova actually stepped on this stone or this floor. Or as in the case in the little church, Vivaldi might have sat in this very chair to pray or develop a musical thought. So, I tread softly and avoid the crowds to simply breathe, observe and taste.